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H.MOSER & CIE - Baselworld 2014
 
Le 17-04-2014
de H. Moser & Cie

H. MOSER & CIE. – THE JOURNEY CONTINUES.

H. Moser & Cie. received investments and invaluable experience in late 2012 from the Meylan family through MELB Holding and was joined by CEO Edouard Meylan in April 2013. Since this time, the company has embarked on a journey of innovative products and fresh ideas, whilst taking care not to lose the essence of what makes H. Moser watches truly special and very rare.

Edouard Meylan is an entrepreneur, in common with the company founder, Heinrich Moser. Today, H. Moser & Cie. is supported by Roger Nicholas Balsiger, Heinrich Moser’s great-grandson, as Honorary Chairman. The industrial and commercial development of the Schaffhausen region was close to the heart of Heinrich Moser, and H. Moser & Cie. plans to continue this support of the local community for generations to come.

Heinrich Moser (1805 - 1874), a son of Schaffhausen, had an interesting and highly successful career. His life was a rich tapestry of events, challenges, personal influence and, most notably, commercial successes. His career was defined during three phases of his life. This entrepreneurial heritage is the inspiration for the new trilogy of H. Moser collections. Two will be established in 2014, called the Endeavour and Venturer Collections, with a third to be presented in 2016.

ENDEAVOUR
Heinrich Moser was born into a family of town watchmakers in Schaffhausen. His father Erhard’s watches were known for their solidity and reliability, and Heinrich Moser started as an apprentice in watchmaking to his father. It is likely this background prompted young Heinrich to embark on a personal journey which ultimately lead to commercial success and professional fulfilment.

In August 1824, aged only 19 years, Heinrich left Schaffhausen to continue his watchmaking apprenticeship in Le Locle in western Switzerland, which ultimately became his second home. Life was hard for the young man, living in modest accommodation and working 14 – 18 hours each day, necessitating much resolve and determination on his part. Within six months, he had become a “highly skilled watchmaker”, according to a biography written by Professor Dr. Adam Pfaff in 1875.

As Moser heard of opportunities in St. Petersburg, in the spring of 1826 he began making preparations to travel to the city. In 1827, Heinrich Moser’s journey to St. Petersburg was long and gruelling. He travelled by horse and train northwards through Germany, as well as by sledge in extreme weather and over treacherous ice on the approach to St. Petersburg. It was the journey by sea from Travemünde to St. Petersburg which would prove the most challenging phase of his journey: a hurricane nearly cost an adventurous Moser his life.

The resolve of Heinrich Moser in his early years would be a facet of his personality that would shine with brilliance throughout his career. It wonderfully exemplifies his determination in the face of adversity and doggedness at achieving his objectives. It is this endeavour which would lead Moser to push himself to create wonderful work and it is a quality in common with the company which bears his name today.

It therefore seems only fitting that Endeavour be the collection which forms the first part of the trilogy, recognising the personal and professional development of this remarkable individual. Unifying the six models introduced since 2005, the Endeavour collection marks a new chapter in the history of H. Moser & Cie.

The classically-styled timepieces exhibit a timeless grace and elegance. Subtle details await and delight inquisitive eyes. On the case, swooping lines adorn the centre band congregating below the crown. The hour and minute hands are swallow-shaped, with an exquisite three-dimensional form. Complications such as a perpetual calendar or a dual-time display deliver enhanced functionality, ingenious solutions but with a restrained tone.

The Endeavour Collection features in-house manufacture movements, expertly crafted by the company’s talented artisans. Whilst respecting watchmaking traditions, the timepieces exhibit innovation. The Double-Pull Crown and Perpetual Flash Calendar system perfectly exemplify this strength of H. Moser & Cie.

VENTURER
Venturer is the new family of watches, representing the second phase of Moser’s life. Soon after establishing H. Moser & Cie. in St. Petersburg in 1828, his timepieces were in demand. His exquisite creations graced the arms of Russian princes and members of the Imperial Court. In fact, most Fabergé table clocks were equipped with H. Moser movements.

With this success, Heinrich Moser established a manufacturing site in Le Locle, drawing on contacts made during his time there. A strength of Moser was his ability to recruit capable individuals to manage his operations. With his products crossing oceans and moving down the Silk Road through a network of boutiques, this astute judgement served him well.

Moser had a clear vision of marketing and commerce. He remarked, “The basis of a manufacturing business must be good and appealing products”. He explained that, “If my tailor supplies a jacket from which the hanging loop is missing, he will have lost credibility with me, even if the jacket fits well. I will regard him as a skilful tailor but a poor businessman ….” It is this mindset that resulted in Moser crafting high-precision timepieces imbued with grace and exceptional craftsmanship, as well as featuring innovation. These principles have been embraced with the new Venturer Collection which takes its name from Moser’s commercial ventures that attracted the patronage of clients from around the globe.

The Venturer Collection of watches is infused with design elements from traditional pocket watches, but they also reference the 1920s Bauhaus era and feature the convex crystals of the 1960s. This collection includes a new in-house manufacture movement, the Calibre HMC 327.

With a mixture of pioneering spirit, well-judged ambition and ingenuity, the third phase of Heinrich Moser’s life will be depicted with a further family of very rare watches. However, in the same way Heinrich did not reveal his plans for harnessing hydro power on the river Rhine, keeping his plans secret, the public will have to wait to learn of the final part of this exceptional trilogy – at least until 2016.

H. MOSER & CIE. VENTURER – A NEW FAMILY OF PRODUCTS.

Heinrich Moser’s entrepreneurial spirit is celebrated with the new Venturer Collection of watches. The Venturer Small Seconds with its HMC 327 movement, the first timepiece in the collection, reaffirms H Moser & Cie.’s renown for crafting high precision timepieces, imbued with grace and exceptional craftsmanship. Taking cues from the company’s historic pocket watches, the Venturer Collection also incorporates pure design elements from the 20th century.

The inspiration for this latest collection from H. Moser & Cie. is the second phase of Heinrich Moser’s professional ventures in the Russian city of St. Petersburg. Established in 1828, H. Moser & Cie. soon attracted the patronage of the Imperial Court. Indeed, Moser quickly built his reputation and saw the watchmaking business that bore his name flourish and become a resounding commercial success.

DESIGN ELEMENTS OF THE NEW VENTURER COLLECTION
The Venturer Collection is infused with design elements from traditional pocket watches but also with a clever mix of cues from the Bauhaus era of the 1920s and convex forms of the 1960s. This includes a larger bezel opening, revealing the extremely restrained and elegant H. Moser signature fumé dial. In keeping with the clean lines of the crystal, bezel and case, the dial surface has a convex profile and the hands follow this contour, according a delightful depth to their form and an attention to detail that grows on closer inspection. The baton design and the curved edge of the swallow-shaped hands are long and slim, expressing a dynamic character. Refined lines are a key attribute to the design language of the new Venturer Collection.

Carefully selected features are shared with the Endeavour Collection, such as the crown with the Moser “M” adorning its vertical flank. The curving lines of the satin brushed area embellish the case band, swooping downwards to convene beneath the crown. The resultant mien is exquisite and imparts a joyous moment of discovery on first acquaintance. All elements of this crafted timepiece harmoniously blend, identifying the Venturer as unmistakably H. Moser.

THE VENTURER SMALL SECONDS, A GREATER CHOICE
The Venturer Small Seconds is the very first model of the Venturer Collection, featuring a small seconds display deliberately positioned as close to the bottom of the dial as possible. This model is available in three different references, each exhibiting its own unique character. The choice of three 18-carat red gold models, includes an ardoise or a sensual argenté dial, as well as the unusual, and highly attractive, new signature dial in red gold fumé.

In creating the Venturer Collection, H. Moser & Cie. has initiated a range of refined timepieces with a design that engages with an arresting presence. With plans to expand the Venturer Collection with additional models as well as complications, the ambition of H. Moser & Cie. reaffirms its entrepreneurial heritage and its reputation for ingenious products.

HMC 327 SMALL SECONDS – A NEW MOVEMENT OPENLY REVEALED
The Venturer Collection includes a new in-house manufacture movement for 2014, the Calibre HMC 327. This calibre is characterized by its traditional watchmaking finishing, minimum power reserve of three days and a hacking seconds function. Measuring 32 mm in diameter, the Calibre HMC 327 is optimally sized to suit the 39.2 mm case of the new Venturer Small Seconds. The HMC 327 has also been designed to sit closely to the exhibition case-back, allowing the wearer to enjoy an intimate view of the fine finishing practised at H. Moser & Cie.

The HMC 327 is the result of a close examination of historic movements, an evolution that delivers optimised performance and efficiency. By introducing this calibre in the new Venturer Collection, the company has a range of prestigious watches that uphold its matchless watchmaking standards and display considerable efficiencies in production and assembly.

Such efficiencies provide benefits through state-of-the art technology in the form of a silicon anchor with ruby pallets and a silicon escape wheel. Silicon is anti-magnetic and confers low-friction; benefits which cannot be ignored.

Conversely, traditions are also respected. The in-house Straumann Hairspring® features a hand-applied Breguet overcoil, enhancing isochronism. The balance wheel includes gold screws facilitating precise poising of the balance. Adorning the movement is the H. Moser company hallmark, expertly engraved in gold, although in keeping with the refined design, the engraving is reduced to a minimum against the backdrop of Moser stripes that adorn the bridges of the HMC 327.

This new collection stands testament to the pride of the skilled team who work patiently, crafting fine watches that are exceptional and very rare.

THE NEW H. MOSER & CIE. CALIBRE HMC 327 – INNOVATION, ENHANCED PERFORMANCE AND VERY RARE.

H. Moser & Cie. produces approximately 1000 watches and 1000 movements in-house each year and is the antithesis of mass production. Their watches are very rare. Time is taken to ensure all elements in each timepiece are distilled to an exacting standard. This year, the company reveals a new movement with a small seconds function, the HMC 327. The in-house calibre was developed specifically for the new Venturer Small Seconds.

Innovation is a key pillar upholding the H. Moser & Cie. brand. Ingenious products are the fruit of the creative minds who work in the ateliers based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall in the Canton of Schaffhausen. This desire to push boundaries, whilst always respecting traditional Swiss watchmaking craft, is a characteristic of H. Moser & Cie. This year, the company reveals a new movement with a small seconds function. Measuring 32 mm in diameter, the Calibre HMC 327 is optimally sized to suit the 39.2 mm case of the new Venturer Small Seconds. The HMC 327 has also been designed to sit closely to the exhibition case-back, allowing the wearer to enjoy an intimate view of the fine finishing practised at H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser & Cie. has always been synonymous with no-compromise quality and exalted finishing. It is a reputation precious to the company and its parent company MELB Holding, owned and run by the Meylan family. The HMC 327 upholds these matchless standards, and benefits from very efficient production and assembly processes. Such efficiencies are achieved by ensuring that all parts of the movement are optimised and that, for example, the number of different screws or ruby sizes are minimised. The number of wheels has also been optimised. This not only minimises assembly times but also maximises performance of the movement as the addition of each wheel results in greater energy consumption. So, by employing as few wheels as possible, a maximised power yield is derived from the mainspring, in a movement that remains very slim.

State-of-the art technology is delivered in the form of a silicon anchor with ruby pallets and a silicon escape wheel. H. Moser & Cie. is not afraid to embrace innovation when it delivers benefits to its customers. Silicon is anti-magnetic and confers low-friction; benefits which cannot be ignored. The in-house Straumann Hairspring® features a hand-applied Breguet overcoil, enhancing isochronism. The balance wheel includes gold screws facilitating precise poising of the balance.

Clearly, designing and producing an escapement requires mastery of the whole balance spring production process – from melting the material right through to completing the finished spring. Together with its associate company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie. developed the Straumann Hairspring® based on the formula used by the inventor of Nivarox, Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard Straumann. This ensures the necessary homogeneity of the material.

Conversely, traditions are respected and beauty is not restricted to merely the exterior of H. Moser watches. The small gap between the two large bridges of the movement allows an enticing view of the circular-grained wheels below and proffers a charming insight into the watchmaker’s domain.

A power-reserve indicator, located on the movement side of the timepiece, provides a restrained insight into the status of the mainspring, which yields a minimum power reserve of three days. In keeping with the H. Moser design philosophy of pure understatement, the functionality of the power-reserve indicator is provided but without corrupting the pure appearance of the main dial. Drawing from the tradition of H. Moser pocket-watch movements produced since 1828, a minimum of engraving is displayed, including the H. Moser company hallmark, expertly engraved in gold. It stands testament to the pride of the skilled team who work patiently, crafting fine watches that are exceptional and very rare.

Original language: English

 



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